We took a 7-night cruise from Dubrovnik in August on Variety Cruises classic small ship, Callisto.
With over 1200 idyllic islands to explore, its impossible to tire of the beautiful Dalmatian coast of Croatia and Montenegro. Despite having already been to this area several times before, there were still many new ports to discover on this cruise to some of the highlights and lesser-known gems of Croatia.
To my mind, the only way to explore this part of the world is island-hopping on a small ship. Able to reach the smaller, less-visited ports, you can visit a different island every day and see the many sides of Croatia in comfort and style.
We embarked in Dubrovnik, and would highly recommend a pre-cruise stay here if you havent already visited this fabulous marble city. We had already spent some time here on a previous trip, so contented ourselves with a walk around the city walls to take in the amazing views, and lunch in a traditional restaurant tucked away down a side street. Its always best to venture off the main Stradun in Dubrovnik to find somewhere to eat - less crowded, better food and cheaper prices!
Our ship, Callisto, was waiting for us at Gruz Harbour (a short journey from the old town of Dubrovnik). We were welcomed on board in the usual friendly Variety Cruises way and felt immediately at home. Carrying just 34 passengers, Callisto is a traditional style yacht with teak decks and brass fittings, with plenty of seating outside and in the air-conditioned lounge. Sunny the bar man recommended a chilled local wine for us and we relaxed out on deck in the knowledge that we would be very well looked after for the next week.
Our first port of call was Split, a thriving port city with its impressive Roman Diocletians Palace. Although its a lively place with ferries toing and froing to nearby islands, head into the old city and enjoy the quieter streets where you can happen upon Roman ruins quite by chance. We spent time in the enormous market, selling everything from tourist souvenirs to bright stacks of fruit and vegetables and freshly-caught fish. After sailing overnight, we arrived at the tiny island of Rab in the morning. Even in August, the scenic walled town had a tranquil, relaxed feel with very few tourists. We set off to explore after breakfast and strolled along the waterfront before heading up into a maze of streets, leading to open squares lined with shops and bars, and the occasional well-tended garden, complete with statues. Above the town was a fragrant pine forest, which stretched down the hill to the sea and a perfect swimming spot with crystal-clear waters.
Next day we cruised through a scenic fjord into Sibenik, gateway to the Krka National Park, where we spent the day on an excursion from the ship. The magnificent waterfalls are the main attraction, but the area is also a nature-lovers paradise, with tours available to point out all the natural wonders of this beautiful National Park. Remember to take your swimming costume as unlike other Parks in Croatia, you can actually swim here, an unforgettable experience.
We had been to the island of Hvar before and were keen to see if it had changed since our last visit, six years ago. Whilst it was noticeably busier around the harbour, the island still has a real charm. Its a pleasure to explore the quaint back streets and pick up some of the islands famous lavender, before people-watching from one of the many bars in the main square. We were looking forward to returning to Korcula, with fond memories of our previous visits. We were not disappointed; this exquisite island is still definitely one of my favourite places in Croatia. Incredibly scenic, with meandering cobbled streets overlooking the sparkling sea, there are plenty of places to stop and take in the view, sample some of the local delicacies, and shop for upmarket souvenirs. Korculan wine is well-regarded and the island is perfect for wine-tasting excursions.
Last but in no way least, we cruised into Kotor Bay in Montenegro. This walled town nestled at the end of a picturesque fjord is another favourite of ours, and yet another highlight of this wonderful cruise. Quirky and characterful, Kotor is a popular destination, but with so many enchanting side-streets and hidden squares, its always possible to find a quiet place to relax. On this, our third visit, we were pleased not only to once again find our favourite bar, but also to stumble upon previously undiscovered treasures.
Our cruise experience was exceptional, due in part to the places we were able to visit on this lovely small ship. The other major factor in our enjoyment was the ship itself. The crew on board were friendly, unfailingly helpful, efficient and made sure everything ran like clockwork. Special praise to hotel manager Spiros who oversaw everything like a hawk, and our barman Sunny, who went out of his way to make our cruise special.
The food was simply amongst the best I have ever experienced on a ship - and thats no faint praise! The breakfast buffets were unbelievably tempting; I enjoyed a different breakfast every day, from yogurt and fresh fruit to golden pastries and a full cooked breakfast. Lunch was a tantalising choice of tasty salads and several hot options, whilst dinner was truly exceptional, with a choice of courses which were universally appreciated. There was a real Mediterranean flavour to the food, enhanced by the fact we ate most of our meals al fresco, enjoying the wonderful views.
Finally, the other joy of small ship cruising is getting to know your fellow guests. We were lucky enough to cruise with a group of very interesting and friendly guests from all over the world, who made our holiday an even greater pleasure.
Thank you to Variety Cruises and Croatia for delivering such a perfect blend - and even the weather was wonderful too!
The MV Corona is an immaculately maintained small cruise ship, with a fabulous captain and crew. The food we were served throughout the week was outstanding, we all marvelled at how the chef managed to produce such dishes from such a small kitchen. The Captain took decisions to change our schedule to avoid any bad weather/heavy seas, without any loss to the overall itinerary. Our Cruise Manager, Martina was always available to help with small or large things that made the trip outstanding. The cabins and en-suite facilities are better than any we have used on larger cruise ships. The small number of passengers - max 30 - make it very easy to meet and enjoy yourself with fellow travellers and also manage the on-shore excursions that were included in the cruise. We were able to dock at wonderful small harbours at the overnight island stops, as well as enter small secluded bays for our regular swim sessions off the back of the boat. All but one of the guided tours on this cruise were well managed by local guides, but overall they were very good. The way the cruise is run providing a 3 course lunch on board daily, then allows you free time during the evening at each new destination to which you have already been introduced, to spend time with new friends, and take your own decisions about needing an evening meal, a snack of just a drink at a local bistro round the harbour, or visit something specific seen on the earlier guided tour. Being a May cruise the passengers were almost all retirees with an age span of about 20+ years, and an eclectic mix of backgrounds, including doctor, engineer, corporate manager, military, business owner and architect. The conversations were far ranging and always entertaining whenever we got together on board or on shore.
We took cruise only as we wanted to spend an additional few days in Dubrovnik, and we would certainly recommend doing it this way. Croatia is delightful, and one of the cleanest countries we have ever visited, all public facilities are immaculate, locals everywhere we visited wanted to be helpful, and almost all speak English. The coast line from Venice (Italy) in the north, down to just south of Dubrovnik, is magnificent, with beautiful green/blue clear sea water everywhere and numerous small islands that are pristine, with many having either UNESCO World Heritage, or National protection.
Note: We had booked our own flights using EasyJet from Bristol. Unfortunately our flight to Dubrovnik got delayed by 3 hours courtesy of French Air Traffic Controllers striking. We didnt arrive until after 8.00pm instead of being on board MV Corona by 5.00pm. Riviera Travel get full marks for helping us - I called their emergency number from the aircraft (Sunday 13th) and Tracey very quickly put me in direct contact with Martina, our Cruise Manager on the ship, that allowed us to easily manage the delay without causing any issues. Despite being very late, and all the other passengers had eaten 2 hours earlier, the chef provided us our 3 course hot meal - first class service from everyone.
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