Expedition Chilean Fjords: Stone and Ice

• Day 1 Ushuaia

  At 55 degrees latitude south, Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swy-ah) is closer to the South Pole than to Argentina's northern border with Bolivia. It is the capital and tourism base for Tierra del Fuego, the island at the southernmost tip of Argentina.Although its stark physical beauty is striking, Tierra del Fuego's historical allure is based more on its mythical past than on rugged reality. The island was inhabited for 6,000 years by Yámana, Haush, Selk'nam, and Alakaluf Indians. But in 1902 Argentina, eager to populate Patagonia to bolster its territorial claims, moved to initiate an Ushuaian penal colony, establishing the permanent settlement of its most southern territories and, by implication, everything in between.When the prison closed in 1947, Ushuaia had a population of about 3,000, made up mainly of former inmates and prison staff. Today the Indians of Darwin's "missing link" theory are long gone-wiped out by diseases brought by settlers and by indifference to their plight-and the 60,000 residents of Ushuaia are hitching their star to tourism.The city rightly (if perhaps too loudly) promotes itself as the southernmost city in the world (Puerto Williams, a few miles south on the Chilean side of the Beagle Channel, is a small town). You can make your way to the tourism office to get your clichéd, but oh-so-necessary, "Southernmost City in the World" passport stamp. Ushuaia feels like a frontier boomtown, at heart still a rugged, weather-beaten fishing village, but exhibiting the frayed edges of a city that quadrupled in size in the '70s and '80s and just keeps growing. Unpaved portions of Ruta 3, the last stretch of the Pan-American Highway, which connects Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, are finally being paved. The summer months (December through March) draw more than 120,000 visitors, and dozens of cruise ships. The city is trying to extend those visits with events like March's Marathon at the End of the World and by increasing the gamut of winter activities buoyed by the excellent snow conditions.A terrific trail winds through the town up to the Martial Glacier, where a ski lift can help cut down a steep kilometer of your journey. The chaotic and contradictory urban landscape includes a handful of luxury hotels amid the concrete of public housing projects. Scores of "sled houses" (wooden shacks) sit precariously on upright piers, ready for speedy displacement to a different site. But there are also many small, picturesque homes with tiny, carefully tended gardens. Many of the newer homes are built in a Swiss-chalet style, reinforcing the idea that this is a town into which tourism has breathed new life. At the same time, the weather-worn pastel colors that dominate the town's landscape remind you that Ushuaia was once just a tiny fishing village, snuggled at the end of the Earth.As you stand on the banks of the Canal Beagle (Beagle Channel) near Ushuaia, the spirit of the farthest corner of the world takes hold. What stands out is the light: at sundown the landscape is cast in a subdued, sensual tone; everything feels closer, softer, and more human in dimension despite the vastness of the setting. The snowcapped mountains reflect the setting sun back onto a stream rolling into the channel, as nearby peaks echo their image-on a windless day-in the still waters.Above the city rise the last mountains of the Andean Cordillera, and just south and west of Ushuaia they finally vanish into the often-stormy sea. Snow whitens the peaks well into summer. Nature is the principal attraction here, with trekking, fishing, horseback riding, wildlife spotting, and sailing among the most rewarding activities, especially in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (Tierra del Fuego National Park).

• Day 2 Chilean Fjords
  Very few continents have such spectacular nature, such fascinating flora and fauna: your small and manoeuvrable ship can demonstrate its advantages as an expedition ship in the narrow waterways of Chile’s southern fjords. During the passage through the Beagle Channel, “Glacier Alley”, the ship’s deck is your front-row seat for the thrilling natural spectacle of the mighty ridges: five tidewater glaciers line the waterway between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. If nature plays along, you will be able to spot sea lions and humpback whales. From a distance, you can already see the shimmering blue ice of the Garibaldi Glacier stretching down to the water. Ice floes drift in the fjord, and the silence of nature is broken only by the sounds of the sea lions. Look forward to thrilling experiences with the Zodiacs, depending on the local authorisations. In the wake of the world-famous explorer, you will cruise through the Strait of Magellan: Ferdinand Magellan found the passage on his search for the Moluccas, the “spice islands”. His ship was small and manoeuvrable and could also navigate narrow bays – just like the expedition fleet of Hapag-Lloyd Cruises today. Following the route taken by the first person to sail around the world, you’ll be welcomed by Punta Arenas. In Chile’s southernmost city, you will be surrounded by colonial flair and the pioneering spirit of the golden age of seafaring. For example, it offers fascinating insights into the habitat of the Magellanic penguins*, which populate Isla Magdalena by the thousands. With a little luck, your bird watching will be crowned by the appearance of the condor, the Chilean national bird. The captain and crew once again prove their great expedition experience during the passage through the Kirke Narrows. On the approximately 100 m (328 ft) long passage, you will pass 1,300 m (4,265 ft) peaks on both sides, glaciers and a unique landscape – until all the narrows and currents have been mastered with flying colours. On the way to the port city of Puerto Natales, which can often only be reached by plane, you may spot dolphins, whales and seals. It is the starting point for exploring the Torres del Paine National Park* with mountains that are almost 3,000 m (9,843 ft) high. Over 100 different animal species, including rheas, flamingos and Andean condors, live between rushing waterfalls, extensive forests and shimmering aquamarine mountain lakes. As you cruise through the southern fjords, the captain and crew will select the most fascinating routes to stunning experiences. Over thousands of years, the mountains have formed a gigantic picture book of the earth’s history – which your ship will take plenty of time to study in detail. The excitement mounts on board as the nautically demanding manoeuvres lead to spectacular scenes as you enjoy the far-reaching views from the extensive outside decks. The Pio XI Glacier is immense, with a height of up to 75 m (246 ft) and a kilometre-long ridge. With its bizarre craggy surface, it sparkles blue and white. You will glide between icebergs great and small as you take in the impressive views from your Zodiac.

  Strewn through the coast of Chile, these beautiful fjords are world renowned for being one of the most awe-inspiring places on earth. Snow-capped volcanoes nestle majestically alongside rolling valleys of ice and frosty glaciers. Rugged beauty, breathtaking scenery not to mention diverse and profuse wildlife abounds – expect to watch whales from the deck, see playful Magellan Penguins and perhaps even spot the rare Andean Condor. Affectionately named “The End of the World” by the Spaniards who discovered the region in eighteenth century in a quest to Christianise South America, these extraordinary waterways not only encompass a medley of jagged mountains and iceberg strewn bays, but feature a kaleidoscopic spectrum of unexpected colour that offers photographic opportunities like no other destination.

• Day 9 Chilean Fjords
  Great adventures of discovery lie ahead of you as your small expedition ship explores Chile’s northern fjords. New facets surprise at every turn: towering mountain landscapes, unique glaciers and diverse cultural encounters. Your expedition ship is perfect for cruising through the northern fjords. In the labyrinth of canals and islands, you will experience the beauty of Chile up close. The inspiration Walk offers you the ideal place for this with the best views. Chaiten is also testament to the power of nature. The small town at the foot of the volcano of the same name was buried under silt and ash when the volcano erupted in 2008. Life has returned to the former ghost town, but some half-buried houses still bear witness to the drama. On a walk through the town and on hikes in nature with your experts, you will learn interesting facts about the geological and tectonic events in Chile.The stunning natural phenomena surrounding the city of Puerto Montt include snow-capped mountains, volcanoes, fjords and countless lakes. Thanks to its picturesque location on the Pacific Ocean, the town is also known as the gateway to Patagonia. The region is home to false elms and kingfishers – and it contains evidence of German immigrants, such as Black Forest gateau. Equally stunning: the Isla de Chiloe, where the 43,000 ha (106,255 ac) national park invites you to go on excursions* to explore the nature. You will land in Ancud, a truly unspoilt little place with a regional museum that is worth a visit and an old Spanish fort. The charming coastal town is known for its historical significance, scenic location and proximity to unique natural attractions. In addition to the excursions*, it is also worth taking an independent walk here.

  Strewn through the coast of Chile, these beautiful fjords are world renowned for being one of the most awe-inspiring places on earth. Snow-capped volcanoes nestle majestically alongside rolling valleys of ice and frosty glaciers. Rugged beauty, breathtaking scenery not to mention diverse and profuse wildlife abounds – expect to watch whales from the deck, see playful Magellan Penguins and perhaps even spot the rare Andean Condor. Affectionately named “The End of the World” by the Spaniards who discovered the region in eighteenth century in a quest to Christianise South America, these extraordinary waterways not only encompass a medley of jagged mountains and iceberg strewn bays, but feature a kaleidoscopic spectrum of unexpected colour that offers photographic opportunities like no other destination.

• Day 13 Valparaiso
  Huddled together, the colourful houses appear to cling to the hillsides of Chile’s cultural capital city, Valparaiso. Parts of this multifaceted ensemble have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2003. “Mini San Francisco” invites you to immerse yourself in the life of the Chileans. On your walk, you will notice the street art with large-scale murals and graffiti that adorn almost every corner in the historic district. The former house of the famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda is now a museum and offers insights into his life. The many hills of the city can be accessed by old cable cars, the “ascensores”: from the vantage points, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and the picturesque city.

  Valparaíso's dramatic topography-45 cerros, or hills, overlooking the ocean-requires the use of winding pathways and wooden ascensores (funiculars) to get up many of the grades. The slopes are covered by candy-color houses-there are almost no apartments in the city-most of which have exteriors of corrugated metal peeled from shipping containers decades ago. Valparaíso has served as Santiago's port for centuries. Before the Panama Canal opened, Valparaíso was the busiest port in South America. Harsh realities-changing trade routes, industrial decline-have diminished its importance, but it remains Chile's principal port. Most shops, banks, restaurants, bars, and other businesses cluster along the handful of streets called El Plan (the flat area) that are closest to the shoreline. Porteños (which means "the residents of the port") live in the surrounding hills in an undulating array of colorful abodes. At the top of any of the dozens of stairways, the paseos (promenades) have spectacular views; many are named after prominent Yugoslavian, Basque, and German immigrants. Neighborhoods are named for the hills they cover. With the jumble of power lines overhead and the hundreds of buses that slow down-but never completely stop-to pick up agile riders, it's hard to forget you're in a city. Still, walking is the best way to experience Valparaíso. Be careful where you step, though-locals aren't very conscientious about curbing their dogs.

• Day 14 Chañaral Island
  Isla Chanaral is rocky, with sparse vegetation – and yet full of life. It is a protected area for Humboldt penguins, which share their habitat with sea lions, fur seals and a wide variety of seabirds. The surrounding waters are very rich in nutrients thanks to the cold Humboldt Current and are home to a diverse marine ecosystem that also attracts dolphins and whales. Cruising off the island in local boats provides many opportunities for wildlife watching: keep an eye out for the penguins, which can dive for up to eight minutes and around 30 m (98 ft) deep. You might also spot Peruvian boobies on the cliffs and in the sky. They show off swooping dives to catch prey from the sea.

  Isla Chañaral is located just off the Central Chilean coast and, along with two other smaller islands, is part of the Humboldt Penguin National Reserve. The islands are an important breeding site for Humboldt Penguins. Sea lions rest on the rocky cliff ledges, while rare South American marine otters have been known to slide in and out of the waters along the coastline, and playful bottlenose dolphins swim in the surrounding seas. The island itself consists of an upper and a lower plateau. The lower level is covered in shrubby vegetation peppered with cacti, while the high plateau appears desolate in contrast.

• Day 16 Iquique
  Iquique is a lively port city in northern Chile, nestled between the Atacama Desert and the Pacific Ocean. Its impressive beaches attract water sports enthusiasts and sun worshippers alike. Historically shaped by the saltpetre boom of the 19th century, well-preserved buildings in the belle-epoque style in the Baquedano district still bear witness to this era – let these times pass you by on your city walk. With a mix of history and beaches, Iquique has developed into a diverse destination that combines culture and nature in a unique way.
• Day 18 Paracas
  The Paracas Peninsula shows the best sides of Peru: a dream coast surrounded by the sea, a diverse animal world and historical sites. The nature reserve created here in 1975 includes the peninsula, the bay and the small archipelago of Islas Ballestas. The largest marine nature reserve in South America is home to blue-footed boobies, pelicans and Humboldt penguins as well as seals and dolphins. Many birds from colder regions also migrate here in winter. The area around the city is famous for its historical treasures, including pre-Columbian geoglyphs on the mountain slopes. Join your experts on board for a journey through time and find out how the images, such as the geometric figures and monumental animal pictures of Nazca, were created. According to legend, the region is where the first white-and-red flag of Peru originated when, in 1820, national hero Jose de San Martin was inspired by a flock of flamingos here. What will your encounter with the diverse fauna do to you?

  The port city of Paracas is blessed with magnificent natural beauty and rich historical importance, offerings inviting beaches, ideal weather and pleasant scenery - a combination that draws visitors throughout the year. The shores of the Paracas Peninsula and waters of the bay teem with wildlife and have been declared a national reserve. Condors frequently can be seen gliding on the sea winds or perched on the cliffs; pink flamingos often rest here on their migratory flights. The complex interaction between wind and ocean, sun and land has transformed this region into a kind of lunarscape under an equatorial sun. Another reason for travellers to come to this area is its proximity to the famous and mysterious Nazca Lines. Visible from the air, these strange markings stretch for miles on a large barren plain and have bewildered archaeologists, historians and mathematicians since their discovery over a century ago. The earliest Andean people found shelter here. The Paracas culture was known for fine weavings in geometrical designs and vibrant colours, which have been preserved for thousands of years by the dry climate. Some of the finest examples are in museums in Lima. The town of Ica is Peru’s finest wine centre, as well as home to the fiery brandy-derived beverage known as Pisco. The surrounding area features oases with springs considered to have medicinal cures. Pier Information The ship is scheduled to dock at Port of Paracas, about a 45-minute drive from Ica. There are no passenger facilities at the pier. Shopping Shopping opportunities are limited; some souvenirs can be found at the museum in Ica. A bottle of Peruvian Pisco (grape brandy) makes a nice memento. The local currency is the nuevo sol. Cuisine Seafood is highly recommended, however, we recommend you dine only in the hotel restaurants in Peru’s southern region. Be sure to sample the national drink pisco sour and the area’s excellent wines. Always drink bottled water and avoid ice cubes. Other Sites The Bay of Paracas is sheltered by the Paracas peninsula, noted as one of the best marine reserves in the world. This is also a popular resort area thanks to its beautiful bay, beaches and dependable warm weather. Facilities include swimming pools, tennis courts, miniature golf and a good restaurant. For those who are looking for a little adventure dune buggies are available. Local boat trips can be booked to the Ballestas Islands but be aware that commentary is given in Spanish. Private arrangements for independent sightseeing are limited in this port as cars have to come from Lima. Please submit your request to the Tour Office early in the cruise.

• Day 19 Callao

  When people discuss great South American cities, Lima is often overlooked. But Peru's capital can hold its own against its neighbors. It has an oceanfront setting, colonial-era splendor, sophisticated dining, and nonstop nightlife.It's true that the city-clogged with traffic and choked with fumes-doesn't make a good first impression, especially since the airport is in an industrial neighborhood. But wander around the regal edifices surrounding the Plaza de Armas, among the gnarled olive trees of San Isidro's Parque El Olivar, or along the winding lanes in the coastal community of Barranco, and you'll find yourself charmed.In 1535 Francisco Pizarro found the perfect place for the capital of Spain's colonial empire. On a natural port, the so-called Ciudad de los Reyes (City of Kings) allowed Spain to ship home all the gold the conquistador plundered from the Inca. Lima served as the capital of Spain's South American empire for 300 years, and it's safe to say that no other colonial city enjoyed such power and prestige during this period.When Peru declared its independence from Spain in 1821, the declaration was read in the square that Pizarro had so carefully designed. Many of the colonial-era buildings around the Plaza de Armas are standing today. Walk a few blocks in any direction for churches and elegant houses that reveal just how wealthy this city once was. But the poor state of most buildings attests to the fact that the country's wealthy families have moved to neighborhoods to the south over the past century.The walls that surrounded the city were demolished in 1870, making way for unprecedented growth. A former hacienda became the graceful residential neighborhood of San Isidro. In the early 1920s the construction of tree-lined Avenida Arequipa heralded the development of neighborhoods such as bustling Miraflores and bohemian Barranco.Almost a third of the country's population of 29 million lives in the metropolitan area, many of them in relatively poor conos: newer neighborhoods on the outskirts of the city. Most residents of those neighborhoods moved there from mountain villages during the political violence and poverty that marked the 1980s and ’90s, when crime increased dramatically. During the past decade the country has enjoyed peace and steady economic growth, which have been accompanied by many improvements and refurbishment in the city. Residents who used to steer clear of the historic center now stroll along its streets. And many travelers who once would have avoided the city altogether now plan to spend a day here and end up staying two or three.

Expedition Chilean Fjords: Geological Testimonies Made Of Stone And Ice Itinerary