Boarding from 07.30. The ship will depart at 10.30am. Papeete is the capital of French Polynesia. A charming slice of French culture in the middle of the South Pacific, Papeete is the perfect place to begin absorbing the friendly, leisurely Polynesian way of life.

Fakarava is the second largest atoll in the Tuamotu, and a glorious gem. There is snorkeling and scuba diving for people of all levels. You can swim and snorkel in the translucent lagoon to watch the colourful ballet of tropical lagoon fish. The entire morning will be spent on shore. Lunch will be served on board while we set sail for the Marquesas.

You can relax with a book on one of the sun decks, swim in the small pool or enjoy the immense South Pacific. Balmy evenings mean reading in lounge/library or chatting with an authority on Marquesan culture or archaeology. You'll probably spend many evenings socializing on the upstairs deck/bar with your fellow adventurers from around the world. The spirited Polynesian crew treat you like honoured guests and proudly introduce you to their rich culture and music.

From the deck, you'll see the soaring mountain spires of Ua Pou. Whenever the Aranui stops. villagers greet it. As the crew unloads supplies, you'll explore the tiny town of Hakahau with its church with a hand-carved wooden dais. You can meet some talented woodcarvers and hike up a hill for a breathtaking view of the distant cloud-covered mountains. At Rosalie's Restaurant, you'll taste your first Marquesan lunch: breadfruit, a marquesan staple, along with curried goat, barbecued rock lobster, poisson cru (raw fish marinated in lime juice and soaked in coconut mile), taro and sweet red bananas.

Taiohae Bay is a giant natural amphitheatre, the remnants of a volcanic crater. Around the bay are towering cliffs streaked by waterfalls. Herman Melville, author of Moby Dick, deserted his whaling ship here in 1842 and fled to Taipivai Valley - a treasure trove of stone 'tiki' gods; massive platforms on which the locals built their houses, and sacred ritual sites with enigmatic carvings of turtles, birds and fish. We'll have lunch at Yvonne's Restaurant, one of the best restaurants in the Marquesas, where the speciality is pig baked in an underground oven, You'll meet the owner-chef, Yvonne, who also happens to be the town's energetic mayor. The Aranui's whaleboats will sail down the river to return you to the Aranui, which is anchored in the bay.

We have plenty of time to explore Atuona, the second largest village in Marquesas. Our trained guides will tell the stories behind these ancient, human-like statues amongst the mysterious jungle ruins. Atuona was the final resting place of artist Paul Gauguin, with his simple gravestone overlooking the bay where he once lived and worked. The Gauguin Museum displays items related to his life and has copies of his works. You'll enjoy another lavish Marquesan luc=nch at Hoa Nui Restaurant.

Lush and tropical, Fatu Hiva is a centre of Marquesan crafts. We'll visit the villages of Omoa and Hanavave - on the Bay of Virgins, one of the most beautiful bays in the world surrounded by jagged peaks, dense forest and palm trees.

We'll travel by foot or by jeep to the most important archeological sites for tikis (ancient, human-like religious sculptures) other than Easter Island. Our trained guides will show you these mysterious jungle ruins of Puamau and tell the stories of these haunting statues of an ancient civilization.

Tahuata is the smallest island in the Marquesas, located to the southwest of Hiva Oa, and was visited by Captain James Cook in 1774. The first Christian missionaries in the Marquesas settled in the village of Vaitahu where the church is decorated with magnificent stained glass windows. Huge boulders of solidified lava make up the ancient temple foundations and village walls around Hapatoni.

Ua Huka is a centre for Marquesan handicrafts. This tiny island's five hundred or so inhabitants are outnumbered by the horses and goats that wander freely. You can explore the island by 4x4, or saddle up one of the horses for a more leisurely tour. Be sure to visit the many workshops of the Marquesan artists where they create beautiful crafts. A delicious lunch is provided at the local restaurant, and after your return to the Aranui, it's Polynesian night with dancing and a buffet dinner on deck.

Ua Pou (Hakahau)Our last call to Nuku Hiva before returning to Ua Pou. Another superb view of the giant basalt pillars of Oave are gained from Hakahau Bay. It's easy to see how such a wonderful scene provided the inspiration for the artistic traditions of tattoos, carving, music and dance on the island.

On lovely Rangiroa, the largest atoll in the world, we'll picnic on the coral beach. Aranui passengers can swim and snorkel in a translucent lagoon. Excellent snorkeling and scuba diving are available for people of all levels. 'Rangi' is an underwater jewel box with stunning colours of corals and clouds of tropical fishes. You'll have the opportunity to puchase black pearls from local black pearl farmers. These rare black pearls are French Polynesia's main economic resource.

Morning arrival in Papeete, Tahiti